Sewing 209 - Pattern Drafting: Basic Knit block Set (Torso & Sleeve)

Hello, this topic is coming out a little out of order, as I should have probably done it before all the other topics on knits and stretch fabric. So, we shall be drafting the Basic Knit Block Set. You can consider this a simplified version of the previous block set, which is really designed for non-stretch fabric, but can actually be modified for stretch fabrics. The main difference between this and the previous blocks is the lack of darts as we shall be relying on the stretchiness of the fabric to do the contouring for us.

As you know, we usually shall draft half a front pattern and half a back pattern based on the assumption that a full Front or Back pattern is symmetrical on both the left and right sides. You only need to draft a full piece if the left and right-hand sides are different in some way.

Since we are working in halves (half front/half back) or quarters (Quarter of the whole Bodice) depending on how you look at it, some measurements will be divided into 2, and some will be divided into 4. For this draft, since both the front and back are virtually the same, we are drafting only one piece which you will then duplicate.

This block set shall consist of 3 main pieces; the Torso, the Sleeve and the trousers. The torso will serve as both the Bodice and the Skirt blocks.

Tools you will need

1. Straight ruler

2. Set square

3. Curve ruler

4. Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener

5. Brown paper/ Drafting Paper – 1 sheet (30L x 15W inches) or (75cm x 38cm). It should be longer than your Neck to Hip length and wider than 1/4 Bust measurement. You can always tape sheets of paper together to get the right size.

Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm).

Please see this article for how to take measurements

• Full-length Back (Shoulder to waist)

• Hip depth

• Neck

• Across shoulder

• Shoulder

• Bust

• Waist

• Hip

• Across Back

• Sleeve Full arm Length

• Sleeve Underarm Length

• Elbow Depth

• Bicep

• Wrist

IMPORTANT! Download Basic Knit block (Torso & Sleeve) Calculation Worksheet first

Alex Marie Worksheet_Basic Knit Torso

.pdf

Download PDF • 659KB

The Torso Draft

Note that we are using the figures in the worksheet that have been adjusted for stretch.

1. Line A – B = Back full length Measurement

2. Line B - C = Hip depth measurement

3. Point D = Mark halfway between Points A and D

4. Line A – E = Back Neck depth

5. Line A – F = Front Neck depth

6. Square out short guidelines from points A, B, C, D, E, and F

7. Line A - G = Neck Width Measurement (Line AF - 0.25inch (6mm)

8. Line A - H = Half Across Shoulder Measurement

9. Line H - I = Square down a 2-inch (5cm) guideline

10. Line G - I = Shoulder Measurement. From point G, draw a line touching the guideline

11. Line D - J = One quarter Bust Measurement

12. Line B - K = One quarter Waist Measurement

13. Line C - L = One quarter Hip Measurement

14. Point M = Mark Halfway between Line AD

15. Line M - N = Half Across back measurement

16. Points INJ = Connect with a curved Line for the Armhole

17. Points JKL = Connect with a curved Line for the Side

18. Points EG = Connect with a curved Line for the Back neckline

19. Points FG = Connect with a curved Line for the Front neckline

Duplicate Pattern and Flip to create separate Front and Back pieces. You can extend the bodice to your desired length from the Hip line downwards. This completes the Torso pattern. Next, we shall move on to the Sleeve Pattern.

The Basic Knit Sleeve

1. Line A - B = Sleeve Full-Length Measurement

2. Line A - C = Sleeve Cap measurement

3. Line A - D = Elbow Depth measurement

4. Line C - E = Half Bicep measurement

5. Line B - F = Half Wrist measurement

6. Connect points A and E with a straight line

7. Point G = Mark a point about two-thirds of line AE

8. Connect points AGE with curved lines to form the Sleeve Cap

9. Connect Points EF with a slightly curved line to complete the side of the sleeve

10. Square out a line from point D to mark the Elbow Level

The Sleeve can be cut on the Fold, to avoid cutting on the fold. duplicate and flip to form a full Sleeve.

Please let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for reading. 

Appendix for Basic Knit Block.

Visit our channel and don't forget to subscribe to receive updates about new videos!

We love to hear from readers so please leave a comment if you please. Thank you!