Today we are starting with the basic skirt pattern or block. From this master pattern, you can add style options and make many different styles of skirts.
Principles of pattern drafting
We shall be drafting Half of a Front piece and Half of a Back piece. This is because both sides are the same or symmetrical. You only need to draft a full piece if the two sides are different in some way. Since we are working in halves (half front/half back) or in quarters (Quarter of the whole skirt) depending on how you look at it, some measurements will be divided into 2, and some will be divided into 4. It will all make sense once we get into the work. See Sewing 202 for more details.
Tools you will need
1. Straight ruler
2. Set square
3. Curve ruler
4. Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener
5. Brown paper/ Drafting Paper – 1 sheet (30L x 30W inches) or (75cm x 75cm). It should be longer than your waist to knee measurement and wider than 1/2 hip measurement. You can always tape sheets of paper together to get the right size.
Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm)
1. Waist
2. Hip
3. Hip depth
4. Length (Waist to Knee)
5. Apex
6. Across Back
IMPORTANT! Download Basic Skirt Calculation Worksheet Here first
The Skirt Draft
1. Leaving a space of about 1 inch (2.5cm) from the top of the paper, draw a straight line across the top of the paper to create a guideline.
2. Starting about 1/2 inch (1.2cm) away from the edge of the paper, square another line down from the top left corner of the paper. Label this corner as Point A. This should be perpendicular to the first guideline.
3. Line A – B = Length Measurement
4. Line A – C = Half Hip Measurement
5. Line C – D = Same as A-B
6. Line B – D = Same as A-C
You should now have a Square/Rectangle that is Length by Half Hip measurement.
7. Line A – E = Hip depth measurement
8. From point E, square across a line to Point F
9. Line A – G = Front Hip measurement. From point G, square a straight line down. Label as G, H and I.
10. Label as Centre Front and Centre Back as illustrated above.
Insert Darts
Now we will calculate the Darts to shape the waist line. Darts are triangular shapes that remove excess fabric from a part of the garment to create shape and contours. Darts will turn the flat drawing into a 3D shape when sewn.
Essentially the size of the darts for a skirt is the difference between the Hips and the Waist. The result is then distributed among the 4 darts (2 in front and 2 in back) and the sides of the skirt. See worksheet for detailed calculations.
Front
11. A to J = Front waist measurement plus dart measurement
12. From Point J, square up a line, 3/8 inch long (1 cm). Mark as Point J1.
13. A to K = 1/2 apex measurement minus 3/8 inch (1cm)
13. K to L = Dart measurement
14. Make a mark halfway between points KL and square a line straight down. This line should equal 1/2 of the hip depth measurement. Mark dart point as M. Join points KML to form dart.
Back
15. C to N = Back waist measurement plus dart measurement
16. From Point N, square up a line, 3/8inch long (1 cm). Mark as Point N1
17. C to O = 1/4 Across back measurement minus 3/8inch (1cm)
18. O to P = Back dart measurement.
19. Make a mark halfway between points OP and square a line straight down. This line should equal 3/4 of the hip depth measurement. Mark dart point as Q. Join points PQO to form dart.
20. Join points L, J1 and H with curved lines to complete Front waist and side. Similarly, join points P, N1 and H with curved lines to complete Back waist and side.
21. Separate the Front and the Back piece by cutting down the middle. To test, add seam allowance to the sides, cut the front folded and the back in two pieces to allow for a zipper.
The skirt block is complete. Try testing it without adding ease to easily detect any errors and use non-stretch woven fabric. Please ask any questions and I’ll be sure to help.
Appendix.
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We love to hear from readers so please leave a comment if you please. Thank you!
Hello, Is the apex measurement mentioned the 'apex width (bust span)'? Or is it something else?
Good evening Hyacinth. Thanks for subscribing and welcome. Sorry about that. The link is highlighted above in red where it says Important!. But here is a direct link just for you. Happy drafting! https://static.wixstatic.com/ugd/fe9476_48de224db8124f7e8730a9bed4834a38.pdf
Good Day Alex. I just found your site and wanted to try the skirt block but there is no link for the calculations of the darts. Can you tell me where I can get the link.
Regards
Hyacinth