Pattern Drafting Theories #4- Vertical measurements (The Grid)

Dear readers,

Welcome back to my series called Pattern Drafting Theories, where I examine different components of pattern drafting and how I perceive them from paper to real life scenarios, asking questions and proposing solutions. Conclusions of these theories will not necessarily be reached.

If you have ever studied flat pattern drafting from a book, a video, or a live demo, you may have noticed that they all start with one thing. A Grid. This might not always be obvious, but trust me it is always there. A grid by definition is, "a framework of spaced bars that are parallel to or cross each other; a grating." In pattern drafting, this is established by the vertical measurements of the body. What I like to call, the control measurements.

Vertical Measurements in Pattern Drafting?

Vertical measurements are those that run up and down the body. I refer to them as control measurements since they have little or no change despite a change in weight or clothing size. They are consistent and of course, reflect a person's height. Here are some common examples illustrated above.

So why is this important for pattern drafting?

1. Boundaries - The use of the Grid establishes a boundary for the pattern. It tells you where to start and stop and how far you can go. It even alerts you to errors in your calculations. For example, the full-length front is 19 inches and Full full-length back is 17 inches, which means the total length is 36 inches. While drafting, I'll always be aware that none of my measurements can be shorter or longer than that and all in-between measurements must add up to the total.

Eg. Neck Depth 4in + Centre Front Length 15in = Full-Length Front 19in. Or Outseam 44in - Crotch Depth 12in = In seam 32in

2. Proportions - This ensures that the proportions of your pattern are apparent and that you can easily detect areas that might be disproportionate or imbalanced.

For example, the elbow naturally hangs at about natural waist level; the hip to knee should be longer than the knee to ankle length; and the hip depth cannot be as low as the crotch depth.

3. Staying on Grain - When we cut out fabric, we use the grainlines to ensure that our garments hang and drape properly. The grid helps you create your pattern on the right grainline. You can control which places will be straight or on the bias.

For example, maintaining the crease line on trousers and ensuring that the width of the legs are always balanced in relation to the crease line. Similarly, paying attention to the angles of lines and curves, too steep, too shallow, too angular. It all affects the final sewing.

4. Balance and Posture - Pattern drafting is done on a flat table, so you have no direct contact with the effect of gravity on your garment as you would if you draped directly on a dress form.

The grid allows you to maintain the right balance lines, such as the bust line, waistline, and hipline, especially when working with multiple pattern pieces. For example, the placement of buttons, pockets, and yokes can determined by the grid.

Closing thoughts

That brings us to the end of this topic. It is just another facet of pattern drafting that one may not consider as very important until you think about it. When I first started drafting, I certainly didn't think much about grids and making sure my lines were square. I would just jump into drawing the pattern as I imagined. if anything new and relevant comes to mind I will update accordingly. I hope this helps you in your pattern drafting journey. Thanks for reading and do share your thoughts on the matter.